“Still a Fantastic Place”: Remembering and reimagining Govanhill’s high streets
Writer Laura Vroomen sets off to discover shops that have been lost and those which are likely to survive – meeting shopkeepers, neighbours, and newcomers to uncover how a changing retail landscape reflects a community in flux.
By Laura Vroomen | Illustration by Gabriele Jaceviciute
‘You are a New Yorker when what was there before is more real and solid than what is here now.’
According to the logic of this often-quoted line from Colson Whitehead, you’re a true Govanhillian when you think of Victoria Road as forever home to the Queen’s Café and Pearson’s – two much-loved businesses that now no longer exist.
Nostalgia is a strong factor in attitudes towards our changing streets. But what is driving this change? Is it our changing needs? Or our evolving habits; favouring quick and easy online purchases over traditional forms of shopping? And were things really better in the good old days?
Even after barely 18 months in the area, I’m still a little wistful when a favourite shop or eatery closes and another opens. Reflecting on the ever-changing retail landscape, I set out to talk to shopkeepers – and shoppers.
When I asked people in Govanhill what they make of their local high street and whether they can still get what they need locally, one name kept popping up: Inex. In a world where most things are only a mouse-click away, many of us love to pop into this bricks-and-mortar store. As some suggested, it’s not unusual to go in for one thing and come out with lots of other items. Sledges during the winter months got a special mention.
Mr Majid has run the hardware store on Victoria Road for over 30 years. Throughout that time, he says, business has been quite steady despite competition from online retailers. Although he sells some products online (predominantly bigger garden items), most of the sales are still made in-store. Parking is a problem though, particularly for deliveries.
It’s a similar story for Geoff who runs Campbell’s, the family business selling school uniforms. First opened in the early 1930s, it can stake a convincing claim to being the oldest surviving shop on Victoria Road. Since taking over the business in the late 80s, Geoff has seen a lot of change, with the loss of bank branches and the post office having the biggest impact on his business. The absence of a post office nearby and the small margins on the likes of a polo shirt mean that online retailing isn’t really worth pursuing.
Long-time local Mr Ahmad, who first moved to Govanhill as a young man in 1962 and has lived here ever since, commented on all the establishments that have disappeared from Victoria Road and Cathcart Road. Back in the day, he notes: “Every variety of shop was here, you could buy anything. You didn’t have to go into town.” Now the shoe shops and tailors have made way for bookies, carry-outs and coffee shops.
This abundance of coffee shops, as well as bakeries, comes in for both praise and criticism, with the sceptics singling out the prohibitively high cost of some of the baked goods. The proliferation of just a few types of shop also has knock-on effects for those trying to offer something different, as Richy, owner of the lifestyle store, House Party explained. Govanhill seems to have become a destination for food and drink, effectively crowding out other types of businesses. When I spoke to him, the Victoria Road shop was about to close and switch to online sales only for the time being: “A cluster of other shops doing similar things would be better.” But high rents on Victoria Road are not conducive to risk taking.
Govanhill is probably a good example of a 15-minute neighbourhood, offering the mix of shopping, education, healthcare, culture and work within a small radius that urban planners are so fond of. But for that to remain workable, it is vital that our high streets don’t become over-reliant on a few particular types of businesses that cater only to a particular section of the population.
Another shopping street forever in flux is Cathcart Road. Several people noted that it is no longer the varied shopping street it once was and many now associate it primarily with South Asian dress and fabric shops. When I spoke to Aneela at Sajh Dhaj, she told me that during the nine years she has been selling her special occasion wear, selling mostly to locals and some online, she has seen a lot of change. A combination of Covid-19, high rents and a generational change in attitudes towards traditional South Asian dress has forced a lot of businesses to close. It will be interesting to see if this trend continues and what the next incarnation of Cathcart Road will look like.
One relative newcomer on Cathcart Road is Burning House Books, which was opened by Aimee four years ago. She sells some books online but much prefers to sell them in person to give customers a highly personalised experience: “I want people to come into Burning House Books with virtually no idea what they are looking for and to leave upwards of an hour later having talked it out.”
While this approach requires a certain amount of planning, there is certainly an appetite for the kind of shopping that favours the local and independent. People I spoke to repeatedly mentioned the sense of connection and community it gives them. Both Christine and Jill, who have lived in Govanhill for more than 10 and 30 years respectively, commented on the joy of bumping into people while going round multiple shops. Damian, who has lived in the area for decades, highlighted the environmental benefits of avoiding bigger supermarkets in favour of, say, butchers. Not only are you likely to end up with less packaging, but the option of buying smaller quantities results in less food waste. Karen, who moved here two years ago, told me that she loves to buy fresh produce in small grocery stores and get to know their proprietors, saying that “it makes you feel at home.”
It echoes Aimee’s hope for the future: “I hope we see more people on first name terms with shopkeepers than we do Amazon delivery drivers.” The online behemoth comes in for a great deal of criticism. Not only is it seen to be killing the specialist shops and creating a lot of packaging waste where recycling opportunities are limited but more importantly it seems that many of us simply don’t want to hand over money to faceless multinationals that are indifferent to our communities.
It is lovely to think of the surviving shops in Govanhill as part of a more sustainable and resilient local system, as part of a circular economy that keeps money in the community and helps sustain our neighbourhood. The reality is probably more nuanced though. This kind of nicely curated, independent shopping experience is perhaps something of a privilege, available to those with both time and money to spend. There’s no getting away from the fact that for many the online or bigger retailers are a more affordable option.
One of the criticisms often leveled at the concept of the 15-minute neighbourhood is that improved amenities have the potential to drive up property prices, which in turn can lead to gentrification and further entrench social inequalities. There isn’t the scope here to really unpack this but it’s clear that when it comes to our changing streets there’s a careful balance to be struck between preserving character, ensuring access and embracing change.
One thing is certain, Govanhill’s shopping streets will continue to evolve. Online retailers are probably not the main driver of these changes, with unaffordable rents and rates, parking restrictions and changing tastes all playing a role. And as local residents we have a role to play as well, not least in continuing to make connections and honouring the diversity of our neighbourhood. Or, as Mr Ahmad puts it, continuing “the tradition of Govanhill.” After all, this is “still a fantastic place.”