Under the Moon and Stars: A Literary Tour of Govanhill

 

Did you know that psychedelic psychiatrist RD Laing grew up in Govanhill? Or that John Buchan, author of The 39 Steps lived right around the corner? Have you noticed the there’s not one, but two libraries in Govanhill? In Issue 1, Keir Hind took us on a tour of Govanhill’s literary sights.

Outwith Books | Photo by Paul Reich

Outwith Books | Photo by Paul Reich

 By Keir Hind

Govanhill may not be Manhattan or the Left Bank of Paris, but there’s plenty here to engage the literary-minded. 

Let’s start our tour at the library. Govanhill Library on Langside Road first opened in 1906, one of sixteen libraries part-funded by Andrew Carnegie. Closed at present because of Covid-19, with no current re-opening plans, local people are staging regular read-ins to show the demand for its services.

It’s an impressive Edwardian, Baroque building. On the roof are statues, representing knowledge, of women reading to children. The pioneering psychiatrist RD Laing grew up nearby, and wrote in his autobiography: 

“Outside my bedroom window was the dome of a public library on top of which was an angel, poised on one foot as though to take off to the moon and the stars...” 

A blue plaque marks Laing’s childhood home round the corner on Ardbeg Street. Known for his psychedelic approach, we can only imagine what dreams and ideas the angel inspired.

From Govanhill Library, head up Calder Street then right down Cathcart Road. A bold little shop front at number 636 houses a different, much newer library. Glasgow Zine Library was established as an archive and library for the many self-created magazines produced in Glasgow and beyond. It’s closed at the moment, but staff are still running a busy programme of events through their website.

Continue along Cathcart Road and turn right into Queen Mary Avenue. Number 34, formerly Florence Villa, was a childhood home of the author John Buchan. In his essay Urban Greenery, he described the garden and told of a small cannonball, believed to have come from the Battle of Langside, once found there. 

Buchan was a literary giant in his day, writing several successful novels and biographies. He also became Governor General of Canada and was the first Briton to address the United States Congress. Nowadays he’s best known for the spy thriller The 39 Steps, made into a classic film by Alfred Hitchcock. Don’t linger at the house to count the steps; it’s best not to disturb the residents, and there aren’t 39 anyway.

As a student, Buchan used to walk from here to Glasgow University but our next walk is less arduous. Continue down Queen Mary Avenue, turn right down Langside Road, then left and along to 14 Albert Road. Here you’ll find the little gem that is Outwith. This bookshop is a serene, plant-filled creative space with desks for writers seeking a quiet working area (currently unavailable due to Covid-19). It’s stylish and airy with bespoke shelves for bibliophiles to covet. Don’t ignore the books though – there’s an expertly curated selection of literary fiction available to buy and an efficient book ordering service. Currently open reduced-hours, Thursdays to Sundays.

Turning right down Victoria Road a short distance, we find the Oxfam bookshop. This is something of a treasure trove, with a well-chosen selection of second-hand books and a friendly atmosphere. It is open despite Covid-19, although hours can change.

From Oxfam, head right up Victoria Road and turn right at Bowman Street. Number 96 was the first home of playwright CP Taylor, who described his childhood as being ‘in the rough heart of Glasgow, full of knives and broken bottles’. It’s unclear if that was true then — but now? What would he think of the new cycle path, the artists’ studios, the bookshops? Taylor moved to northern England when he was 28, and worked prolifically there. But his Glasgow connections remained strong – one of his later plays, Walter, is about an ageing Glasgow music hall comedian. And David Tennant (who also played RD Laing in the 2017 biopic) is due to play the lead in a revival of Taylor’s most famous play, Good, when live theatre resumes.

Walk back to Allison Street and the junction of Niddrie Road, and you’ll see the eye-catching corner premises and colourful book-crammed windows of our last stop, Category Is Books. Currently open Thursday to Sunday, with home book deliveries available through their website, this is a ‘fiercely independent queer bookshop’ for the LGBTQIA+ community. It has been operating successfully since 2018 and is a great addition to Govanhill. They’ve been selling books out of a hatch since reopening after lockdown.

I hope you’ve enjoyed your tour. Is Govanhill a richer literary location than you expected? It’s amazing what you can find under the moon and the stars!

Read more about how Category Is Books kept going during the pandemic

This article first appeared in the print edition of the magazine. Order your copy or sign up to become a regular support here.

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